Handia – also called haria or hadia – is the rice beer of Adivasi (tribal) communities across eastern and central India, including the Santal, Munda, Ho and Oraon peoples of Jharkhand, Odisha, West Bengal and Chhattisgarh. Cooked rice is mixed with a dried herbal starter called ranu (or bakhar), left for a few days until it turns sweet, sour and gently alcoholic, then diluted with water and strained or drunk with the rice. It’s an everyday drink and food as well as a part of festivals, weddings and offerings.
Ranu: The Starter
Ranu tablets are small dried cakes of rice flour mixed with roots, bark and leaves of local plants, with recipes that vary by family and village. Their job is the same as other Asian rice-wine starters: to carry molds that turn starch into sugar and yeasts that turn sugar into alcohol. The root of Asparagus racemosus (shatavari) is a common starter ingredient; used on its own as a starter for rice in a lab study, it produced an acidic fermented rice with lactic acid bacteria, bifidobacteria and yeasts (Hor et al., 2022). India has many such traditionally prepared starters for cereal-based alcoholic drinks, each carrying its own mix of molds and yeasts (Tamang, 2022).
What Happens in the Pot
In a study following haria fermentation, molds and yeasts were most numerous on the second day and then declined, while lactic acid bacteria and Bifidobacterium increased throughout. Starch-splitting enzymes and sugars such as maltose and maltotriose built up as the rice broke down (Ghosh et al., 2015). That’s why young handia is sweet and older handia is sourer and stronger. Researchers have isolated a Levilactobacillus brevis strain with probiotic traits from Odisha handia (Sethi et al., 2025) – a lab finding, not evidence that handia itself is a health drink. Alcohol strength varies a lot with the starter, temperature and time; treat it like beer.
Making It at Home
If you can get ranu tablets from an Adivasi producer or grocer, use them as in the recipe card. If not, a dried Asian rice-wine starter ball – Indonesian ragi, Chinese yeast balls or Himalayan marcha – works the same way and gives a handia-style rice beer. Don’t substitute brewing yeast and herbs: yeast alone can’t break down rice starch. And don’t make your own starter from plants you can’t identify with certainty. Like any homebrew, it contains alcohol – not for children or during pregnancy. For related rice and millet drinks, see Indonesian tapai, Philippine tapuy, Korean makgeolli and Nepali tongba. In Assam, the Dimasa brew a rice wine, judima, with a starter cake of rice and bark.