Makgeolli (막걸리) is Korea’s milky, lightly sparkling, sweet-sour rice wine. Steamed rice is fermented with water and nuruk, a traditional starter cake of grain grown over with molds, yeasts and bacteria; the brew is then strained, often diluted with water, and drunk young, usually with savory pancakes (jeon). Commercial makgeolli is sold either unpasteurized (“live”, with a short shelf life) or pasteurized.
Nuruk: Enzymes and Microbes in One Cake
Yeasts can’t ferment rice starch directly, so makgeolli needs a saccharification agent – nuruk – to turn starch into sugar while yeasts turn that sugar into alcohol, both at once. Nuruk carries enzymes and a community of fungi and lactic acid bacteria. When researchers compared makgeolli brewed with nuruk against makgeolli brewed with Japanese-style koji, the nuruk makgeolli had a distinct microbial profile with a higher share of lactic acid bacteria, and the dominant microbes in each makgeolli seemed to come from its starter (Cha et al., 2023). In traditional wheat nuruk, sequencing found the molds Aspergillus, Mucorales and Rhizomucor dominating, with the mix depending on how the nuruk was made (Bal et al., 2016).
How Strong Is It?
Bottled makgeolli is usually a low-strength drink because it’s diluted. A home brew is noticeably stronger straight from the jar and is traditionally thinned with water to taste after straining, which is how you control the strength. Like any alcoholic drink, it isn’t for children, during pregnancy, or for anyone avoiding alcohol. Unpasteurized makgeolli contains live yeasts and bacteria, but it’s still an alcoholic drink, not a health tonic.
Nuruk Quality and Safety
Nuruk is a mold product, and some molds produce aflatoxin. In a Korean survey, 14 of 61 nuruk samples exceeded Korea’s limit for aflatoxin in cereal products (15 ppb); only a small fraction – around 1.2–1.3% of aflatoxin G1 – passed into the finished drink, and the toxin-producing strains found were weak producers (Yun et al., 2020). Buy nuruk from a reputable producer, store it dry and cool, and don’t use cakes that look or smell off. During brewing, a thin pale film can form; fuzzy green, black, blue or pink mold means discard the whole batch – don’t skim it and carry on.
Related rice drinks: Indonesian tapai, Philippine tapuy, Chinese jiu niang, and Korea’s sweet, non-alcoholic rice punch sikhye.