Bryndza is a soft, spreadable, salty and tangy sheep’s cheese from Slovakia and the Carpathian region (Poland’s Podhale, Ukraine and Romania have their own versions). It’s made by ripening fresh ewes’ milk lump cheese (hrudkový syr) and then grinding it with salt into a creamy paste. Slovenská bryndza has been a protected geographical indication (PGI) since it was registered with the EU in July 2008 (UK protected food names register), and it’s the essential ingredient of Slovakia’s best-known dish, bryndzové halušky – potato dumplings with bryndza and bacon.
How Bryndza Is Made
- Lump cheese: ewes’ milk is curdled with rennet, and the curd is drained and pressed into lumps – traditionally at mountain sheep farms (salaš).
- Ripening: the lump cheese ripens for days, while lactic acid bacteria and yeasts sour it and start breaking it down.
- Grinding: the ripened cheese is crumbled, ground and salted into bryndza’s soft, spreadable texture. Some bryndza includes a share of cow’s-milk cheese; traditional May bryndza is made in spring from raw ewes’ milk.
The Microbes – and Raw-Milk Safety
In traditional May bryndza made from unpasteurized ewes’ milk, lactobacilli reached about 108 and lactococci about 109 per gram, with the yeast-like fungus Geotrichum also growing (Pangallo et al., 2014). The same study also found bacteria such as E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus during production. Whey from earlier batches is often reused as a natural starter: in samples from 8 producers it carried useful lactobacilli, but also coliforms in every sample and coagulase-positive staphylococci at 4 producers (Klištincová et al., 2025).
So: bryndza made from raw milk is a traditional product, but raw-milk cheeses aren’t advised during pregnancy, for young children, older adults or anyone with weakened immunity. Choose bryndza made from pasteurized milk in those cases, and keep it refrigerated.
On health, research is limited. In one small trial, 13 women who ate 30 g of bryndza a day during a 4-week weight-loss program had increases in lactic acid bacteria and some short-chain-fatty-acid producers in their gut, compared with 9 women on the program alone (Hric et al., 2021). It’s salty and fairly high in fat, so it’s best as a flavorful part of a meal.
How to Make Bryndzové Halušky
Grate 1 kg of floury potatoes, mix with about 300 g of flour, 1 egg and a teaspoon of salt into a soft, sticky dough, and press it through a halušky grater (or cut small pieces off a board) into a big pot of boiling salted water. When the dumplings float, give them a minute more, drain, and toss them with 250–300 g of bryndza loosened with a little of the cooking water. Top with bacon fried until crisp, and its fat. Outside Slovakia, a mix of feta and a little cream cheese is a common stand-in.
Related sheep and goat milk ferments: Lebanese shanklish, Bulgarian kiselo mlyako and Central Asian qurut.