Shanklish Recipe: Lebanon and Syria’s Aged Fermented Cheese Balls

My neighbor in Beirut — a woman in her mid-seventies who had been making shanklish since she was a teenager — kept a row of aging cheese balls on wooden boards in the coolest room of her apartment every autumn. She made them in October, when temperatures dropped enough for reliable aging without refrigeration. When I asked what distinguished good shanklish from bad, she thought for a long moment. “Time and smell,” she said. “If it smells complex, it’s working. If it smells just bad, something went wrong.” The distinction, she acknowledged, required experience to calibrate. Her first batches had gone wrong too.

Shanklish occupies a flavor territory in Levantine cuisine that has no real Western equivalent. It’s richer and more complex than fresh labneh, from which it’s made. It’s tangier and more herbaceous than most European aged cheeses. The combination of Levantine dairy tradition with the specific herb coating — primarily thyme and chili — creates something that’s recognizably related to Mediterranean fermented dairy traditions but entirely its own thing. And unlike many traditional ferments that require specialized equipment or hard-to-find ingredients, shanklish needs almost nothing beyond yogurt, salt, and patience.

Both Lebanon and Syria claim it as their own, and both are right. The Levant has a unified culinary heritage that long predates modern national borders, and the cheese — under various regional spellings and slight recipe variations — appears in home kitchens, mezze restaurants, and dairy shops from Tripoli to Damascus to the Orontes River valley. Making it at home connects you to that broader tradition directly.

How Shanklish Became a Levantine Winter Staple

Before refrigeration, the problem every dairy-farming household faced was milk surplus management: spring and summer brought abundant milk production; winter brought scarcity. The solution — across essentially every pastoral culture in the world — was transformation. Turn the abundance into something that keeps. Milk becomes yogurt. Yogurt becomes labneh. Labneh, pressed and salted and coated in herbs and left to age, becomes shanklish — a preserved food capable of lasting months.

The timing in traditional Levantine households was always autumnal. October or November, as temperatures dropped to the 15–18°C range ideal for aging without refrigeration, dairy production began its seasonal slowdown. Families would drain the last of the summer’s excess yogurt into labneh over 48 hours, shape the dense, salty mass into balls, roll them in dried thyme and dried chili, and line them up on boards in a cool pantry or cellar. Six weeks later — sometimes two months later — they’d have rounds of intense, complex aged cheese to last through winter.

In the villages of Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley and in Syrian villages around Homs, Tartus, and the Orontes plain, this autumn ritual remained central to household food production well into the 20th century. Regional variations developed based on local ingredients and preferences: Aleppo pepper (fruity, mildly spicy, specific to the Syrian city) in Syrian versions; more thyme-forward herb blends in coastal Lebanese styles; occasional use of dried mint or oregano depending on family tradition. The common thread was the four-stage progression: yogurt → labneh → shaped and salted ball → aged with herbs.

In Lebanon’s cities, shanklish is available fresh from dairy shops (fromageries) that age it to different levels. In Beirut markets, you’ll find young shanklish (2 weeks old, still quite mild and creamy), medium-aged (4–6 weeks, starting to develop complexity), and fully aged versions (2+ months, very hard, sharply flavored, used for grating). Knowing which stage you prefer is part of the enjoyment of exploring it.

What Happens During the Aging Process

Shanklish fermentation works in stages. The first stage — yogurt to labneh — is driven by the same lactic acid bacteria responsible for yogurt: primarily Lactobacillus and Streptococcus thermophilus species. These organisms acidify the milk, coagulate proteins, and drive the pH down to around 4.0–4.5, which creates the tangy base flavor and inhibits pathogenic bacteria.

As the cheese dries and ages, the microbial environment shifts. Residual moisture decreases, salt concentration in the remaining water increases, and the drying surface creates new niches. Surface yeasts and molds — particularly salt-tolerant Penicillium species and various halotolerant yeasts — may colonize the exterior, contributing to flavor complexity. The herb coating introduces its own microbial populations and protects the surface while adding flavor.

Inside the cheese, salt-tolerant Lactobacillus species continue breaking down proteins and fats during aging. This process — proteolysis and lipolysis — generates the free amino acids and short-chain fatty acids that create aged cheese’s characteristic complexity. Research by Al-Otaibi and Wilbey published in the International Journal of Dairy Technology documented this process in Levantine fermented dairy products, finding flavor compound development during shanklish aging mechanistically similar to European aged cheeses but producing distinctly different final compounds due to different starting cultures and different environmental conditions.

The result at 3–4 weeks is a cheese with a flavor profile substantially more complex than the labneh from which it started. The fermentation has created depth; the herb coating has penetrated; the drying has concentrated everything.

Ingredients and Equipment

For the Base Labneh (the foundation):

• 2 liters (8 cups) whole-milk yogurt: Full-fat is non-negotiable. The fat content determines the richness and texture of the final cheese. Use full-fat plain yogurt — ideally a brand with live cultures, which will contribute to more complex aging. Greek yogurt works as a shortcut, starting the process already partially strained.
• 2–3 teaspoons fine sea salt: Divided between the labneh-making stage and the shaping stage. Salt is flavor, preservation, and a primary driver of the aging environment. Traditional shanklish is well-salted — don’t undersalt.

For the Herb Coating and Aging:

• 4 tablespoons dried thyme or zaatar blend: Pure dried thyme is the minimum. A traditional Middle Eastern zaatar blend — thyme, sesame seeds, sumac, and salt — adds more complexity. Look for zaatar at Middle Eastern grocery stores.
• 1–2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper (pul biber) or red chili flakes: Syrian shanklish traditionally uses Aleppo pepper specifically — a fruity, mildly spicy dried pepper from the city of Aleppo with completely different character from generic chili flakes. Worth sourcing specifically.
• Optional additions: Dried oregano (1 tsp), dried mint (1/2 tsp), or black pepper. Vary by tradition and preference.

Equipment:

• Cheesecloth or fine muslin: For draining labneh. At least 50x50cm, ideally twice that.
• Large colander and bowl: The draining setup.
• Wooden boards or wire racks: For the aging stage — air circulation around the cheese balls is important for even drying.
• Cool, ventilated space: 15–18°C (59–64°F) is ideal. A cool pantry, basement, cellar, or the bottom shelf of a refrigerator with the door opened briefly every day works. In warm climates (above 22°C ambient), refrigerator aging is necessary — the cheese will still develop, just more slowly.

How to Make Shanklish: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Make Labneh (48 hours)

Line a colander with two layers of cheesecloth, letting the cloth hang over the sides. Pour in the yogurt. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of salt and stir gently. Gather the edges of the cheesecloth and tie into a bundle, or simply drape the edges over the colander sides. Place over a bowl in the refrigerator. Leave for 48 hours minimum.

The longer you drain, the better. After 24 hours, you have soft labneh — spreadable, good for dipping. After 48 hours, you have firm labneh — dense, holds its shape, ready for shaping into balls. For shanklish, you want the 48-hour version. The labneh should have the consistency of very firm cream cheese, pulling away from the cloth cleanly without sticking.

Important: check and discard the drained whey periodically. Whey pooling around the labneh slows drainage and can cause the cheese to absorb too much moisture back.

Step 2: Salt and Shape (15–20 minutes)

Transfer the drained labneh to a mixing bowl. Add the remaining salt (1–2 teaspoons, adjusted to your taste — taste the labneh and add salt until it’s pleasantly salty but not overwhelming). Mix thoroughly. Using damp hands, roll portions of the mixture into balls the size of a golf ball to a large walnut — roughly 4–5cm diameter.

The shaping technique matters for aging quality. Press each ball firmly and consistently, spending 20–30 seconds on each, compressing to eliminate air pockets. Loose packing creates internal voids where undesirable molds can establish during aging. The balls should be smooth, dense, and uniform.

Step 3: Initial Air-Drying (1–3 days)

Place the shaped balls on wooden boards or a wire rack, spaced so they don’t touch. Leave uncovered in your cool, ventilated space for 1–3 days. This initial drying phase develops a dry skin on the exterior that will anchor the herb coating and begin the surface transformation. If your space is cool (15–18°C), 2 days is sufficient. In a refrigerator, allow 3 days.

After this phase, the surface of each ball should feel dry and slightly firm to the touch — no longer sticky, not yet hard. This is correct. The interior remains moist.

Step 4: Apply the Herb Coating

Mix dried thyme (or zaatar), Aleppo pepper, and any other herbs in a shallow dish. Roll each cheese ball in the mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Coat thoroughly and evenly — thin spots in the herb coverage can develop surface mold more readily than well-coated areas. The herbs are not decorative; they create the flavor-active surface environment for aging.

Step 5: Age the Cheese (2 weeks minimum, 4–6 weeks optimal)

Return the herb-coated balls to their boards. Check every 2–3 days. Turn each ball over to prevent flat spots and ensure even moisture loss from all surfaces.

• At 2 weeks: Firm exterior, moist interior, moderate tang, distinctly herbaceous. Good for eating fresh in mezze.
• At 4 weeks: Harder exterior, drier throughout, more complex and sharp flavor, herbs penetrated deeper. This is the sweet spot for most preparations.
• At 6+ weeks: Very firm, quite dry, strongly flavored and slightly pungent. Excellent for grating, cooking, and people who love assertively flavored cheese.

You may see white powdery surface development during aging — this is often harmless surface mold or yeasts that are part of normal aging. Wipe with a clean cloth dampened in light salt water (1 tbsp salt per cup water). Green, black, or pink fuzzy growth that doesn’t clean off, or any mold that penetrates deep into the cheese, indicates a problem with that ball — discard it.

Step 6: Storage

Fully aged shanklish can be stored submerged in olive oil in a sealed jar at room temperature — the oil protects the surface and the high salt content and acidity prevent pathogenic growth. This is the traditional storage method and keeps well for months, with the oil picking up lovely flavor from the cheese over time. Alternatively, refrigerate on boards and use within 4–6 weeks after reaching desired aging level.

Troubleshooting

Balls cracking during shaping or early aging

The labneh wasn’t drained long enough — 48 hours minimum, 60 hours is better if time allows. Also, press balls very firmly during shaping. You can re-press existing cracked balls back into shape at this stage; once fully dried, they’ll hold.

Strong ammonia smell developing

Protein breakdown has progressed faster than intended, often from too-warm aging conditions or over-development of surface molds. Some ammonia development at 6+ weeks is normal in aged dairy. Pronounced ammonia at 2–3 weeks indicates the aging environment is too warm. Move to a cooler space and wipe surfaces with light salt water.

Herb coating won’t adhere

Surface wasn’t dry enough before coating. Allow an additional day of air-drying, then re-roll in fresh herbs.

Cheese not developing flavor after 3 weeks

Aging environment may be too cold (below 10°C slows development significantly). Move to a slightly warmer spot — 15–18°C is the sweet spot. Also check that your starting yogurt had live active cultures; heat-treated yogurt has different microbial populations that may age less actively.

How to Serve Shanklish

The Classic Mezze (Do This First):

Crumble or roughly chop 1–2 shanklish balls into a shallow dish. Add a generous handful of finely diced ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced white or red onion, and optionally diced green or red peppers. Pour over a very good olive oil — this is the dressing, not a garnish. Add a pinch of dried thyme and salt. Let the whole thing sit for 10–15 minutes before serving so the cheese softens slightly in the oil and the flavors integrate. Serve with warm pita or flatbread.

This is the canonical preparation, and there’s a reason it’s survived unchanged for generations: the acid of ripe tomatoes brightens the fatty richness of the cheese; the onion adds sharpness; the olive oil rounds everything; the bread is the vehicle. Don’t complicate it on your first attempt.

Scrambled Eggs with Shanklish:

One of the most common Lebanese breakfast preparations. Crumble shanklish into beaten eggs and cook gently — the cheese melts slightly and distributes throughout, creating intensely flavored, creamy eggs. Add tomatoes and fresh herbs if you have them. This is a genuinely excellent breakfast.

Further Uses:

• Stuffed tomatoes or peppers: hollow out the vegetable, fill with crumbled shanklish mixed with herbs and olive oil, roast at 180°C for 20 minutes
• Manakish topping: crumble over Lebanese flatbread with a drizzle of olive oil and bake until just melted
• Pasta: crumble over pasta dishes as you’d use a sharp aged cheese
• Cheese board: pairs particularly well with walnuts, dried figs, pomegranate molasses, and honey
• Fattoush or Levantine salads: crumble instead of feta for more herbal complexity

Regional Variations

Syrian shanklish, particularly the Aleppan tradition, tends toward heavier Aleppo pepper seasoning and often uses sheep’s milk yogurt, which produces a richer, more complex base cheese. Lebanese coastal versions are frequently milder with thyme dominant and less chili — reflecting both different regional ingredient traditions and different aging durations. In the Bekaa Valley, some families add dried mint to the herb coating.

Shanklish aswad — black shanklish — is an extreme-aging style where the balls are allowed to develop a full mold coating (usually dark gray to black) over several months. This is considered a delicacy by traditionalists, with a very strong, complex, funky flavor that is entirely an acquired taste. Lebanese dairy shops that stock it often warn first-time customers.

Some modern producers in Lebanon and the Lebanese diaspora have begun making flavored variations: za’atar-and-rose-water coatings, sumac-heavy blends, or Armenian-influenced versions with dried fruits in the coating. These are interesting contemporary explorations of the tradition, though purists in Beirut may have opinions.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is shanklish?

Shanklish is a traditional Lebanese and Syrian aged fermented cheese made from strained yogurt (labneh) that is shaped into balls, generously coated in dried herbs — primarily thyme and chili — and aged for 2–6 weeks or more. It develops complex, tangy, earthy flavor during aging, distinct from fresh labneh. A staple of Levantine mezze.

What does shanklish taste like?

At two weeks: creamy, tangy, herbaceous, moderately sharp — like a well-herbed feta. At four weeks: firmer, drier, more complex and pronounced, earthy from the herbs, distinctly sharp. At six-plus weeks: very strong, pungent, crumbly and intensely flavored — for enthusiasts of assertive aged cheese. The herb coating’s character dominates throughout.

Is shanklish the same as labneh?

No. Labneh is fresh strained yogurt, eaten within a day or two of draining. Shanklish is labneh that has been further drained, salted heavily, shaped, coated in herbs, and aged for weeks to months, developing entirely different flavor, texture, and microbial complexity. Think of labneh as the young fresh form and shanklish as the aged transformation.

Can I use cow’s milk yogurt?

Yes. Traditional shanklish was often made from sheep’s or goat’s milk yogurt, which produces a richer, more complex result. Cow’s milk yogurt makes milder shanklish that many people actually prefer. Full-fat is essential regardless — low-fat yogurt produces dry, crumbly, flavorless result.

How long does shanklish last?

Properly aged shanklish stored in olive oil at room temperature keeps well for 2–3 months. Refrigerated on boards without oil, expect 4–6 weeks at peak quality after reaching desired aging level. Very well-aged shanklish (3+ months) becomes hard and strongly flavored — excellent for grating over pasta or rice.

Where can I buy shanklish if I don’t want to make it?

Lebanese and Syrian specialty grocery stores, Middle Eastern food markets, and online retailers specializing in Levantine foods carry it. Look for labels saying “shankleesh,” “shenklish,” or “chankliche.” For best quality, seek out products from Lebanese or Syrian-owned producers where possible — the family-scale makers typically use traditional recipes and longer aging times than industrial producers.

Labneh Is Spring. Shanklish Is Winter.

My Beirut neighbor had the rhythm of it exactly right. You make labneh in spring when the yogurt is abundant and the weather is mild — fresh, immediate, for today. You make shanklish in autumn when you have surplus, when the air cools enough to age it, and you’re willing to wait for something more substantial.

The waiting is genuinely the skill. Not the technique — the technique is simple enough that Lebanese teenagers learn it. The skill is checking the aging balls every few days without interfering, trusting that the chemistry is working, resisting the urge to eat them before they’re ready. At four weeks, when you crumble the first ball into tomatoes and olive oil and taste what time and salt and thyme have made, the patience pays back completely.

Start in October if you can — the natural cooling of autumn provides ideal conditions without refrigeration. Or start any time in a cool room or refrigerator. The tradition doesn’t require specific seasons so much as it requires the willingness to begin.