Jiu niang (酒酿, “fermented wine”), called lao zao (醪糟) in Sichuan and much of western China, is steamed glutinous rice fermented with a dry starter called jiuqu (酒曲) until the grains soften in a sweet, fragrant, slightly sour liquid with a little alcohol. It’s eaten as it is, cold, or warm in soups and desserts – most famously with small glutinous rice balls (jiu niang tang yuan) or a beaten egg.
What Ferments It
Jiuqu is a ball or powder of rice flour carrying moulds, yeasts and bacteria. In starters for Chinese sweet rice wine collected from different regions, the fungi were dominated by Rhizopus and the yeast-like Saccharomycopsis, and the bacteria by Weissella, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus (Zou et al., 2023). The FAO’s survey of fermented cereals lists lao-chao with Rhizopus and Amylomyces rouxii among its moulds (FAO, 1999).
The mould does the main work: its enzymes turn the rice starch into sugar, which is why jiu niang turns so sweet and syrupy. Yeasts then turn some of the sugar into alcohol, and lactic acid bacteria add a mild tang. In a study that followed sweet rice wine through 43 hours at 30°C, Rhizopus was the main fungus throughout, sugar and acidity rose steadily, and alcohol only appeared at the end, at about 2% by volume (Tian et al., 2025). That’s why a young jiu niang is mostly sweet and a longer one gets more sour and boozy.
Relatives
Indonesian and Malaysian tapai is made the same way with a starter called ragi. Japanese amazake also turns rice sweet with mould enzymes, but uses koji (Aspergillus oryzae) without yeast, so it doesn’t become alcoholic. Rice wines such as Korean makgeolli and Vietnamese rượu cần start similarly but ferment much longer.
How to Use It
- Jiu niang tang yuan: simmer small glutinous rice balls in water, then stir in a few spoonfuls of jiu niang (and a beaten egg, if you like) just before serving; sweeten to taste.
- Cold: a small bowl straight from the fridge, with osmanthus syrup if you have it.
- Cooking: a spoonful in braises, marinades and sauces adds sweetness and a rice-wine aroma.
Heating jiu niang drives off some of the alcohol, but not all of it.