Tongba is a traditional drink of eastern Nepal – especially the Limbu people – and neighboring Sikkim and Darjeeling. The Limbu also make kinema, a sticky fermented soybean. Cooked finger millet (kodo) is fermented with a dried starter cake called marcha; the fermented grain (known as kodo ko jaanr) is packed into a tall vessel, traditionally bamboo, and topped up with hot water. After a few minutes you sip the warm, mildly sweet-sour, lightly alcoholic liquid through a bamboo straw (pipsing) that filters out the grain, then add more hot water – the same millet serves several refills. It’s central to hospitality and celebrations in the region.
How Tongba Is Made
- Cook finger millet until tender, then spread it out to cool.
- Add marcha: the crushed starter is sprinkled over the lukewarm grain and mixed in.
- Saccharify: the grain is heaped in a covered basket or pot for a day or two while molds from the marcha turn starch into sugar – it turns sweet and smells fruity.
- Ferment: it’s packed into a closed vessel for about a week or longer, as yeasts turn the sugar into alcohol.
- Serve: a vessel is filled with fermented millet and topped with hot water.
Marcha and the Microbes
Marcha is a dry starter made from rice with wild herbs and spices, inoculated with a piece of an earlier cake. It carries molds, yeasts and bacteria: across 35 dry starters from Nepal, Sikkim, the Darjeeling hills, Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh, bacterial counts were 105–108 per gram, with lactic acid bacteria such as Pediococcus, Enterococcus, Lactobacillus plantarum and Weissella most common (Pradhan & Tamang, 2019).
In 40 samples of fermented millet (kodo ko jaanr) from Darjeeling and Sikkim, yeasts including Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomycopsis fibuligera, Pichia anomala and Candida glabrata reached about 107 per gram and lactic acid bacteria (Pediococcus pentosaceus, Lactobacillus bifermentans) about 106. The millet had a pH of 4.1 and 4.8% alcohol, and no Bacillus cereus, Staphylococcus aureus or Enterobacteriaceae were detected (Thapa & Tamang, 2004). The liquid you drink is weaker, since it’s diluted with hot water.
Tongba and Health
Tongba is an alcoholic drink. In a Nepali hospital study of 1,500 patients with alcohol abuse or dependence, drinking tongba was associated with about three times the odds of chronic liver disease, even after adjusting for the total amount of alcohol consumed (Pradhan et al., 2015). Enjoy it occasionally, and not during pregnancy or if you avoid alcohol.
Where to Get Marcha
Look in Nepali, Tibetan and Himalayan grocery stores. If you can’t find it, Chinese yeast balls (for fermented rice) are a similar mold-and-yeast starter, though the flavor differs. For more on the region’s ferments, see a review of Eastern Himalayan fermented foods (Tamang et al., 2021).
Related: Tibetan barley chang, Indonesian sweet fermented rice tapai, and Nepal’s fermented greens gundruk. From the same mountains comes chhurpi, a cow- or yak-milk cheese eaten soft or dried rock-hard.