Tejuino is a cold, sweet-sour fermented maize drink from western and northwestern Mexico – Jalisco, Nayarit, Zacatecas, Sinaloa, Sonora and Chihuahua (Rubio-Castillo et al., 2021). The street version is thick, brown and tangy from piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar) and a short fermentation, and it’s served over ice with lime juice and salt, often with a scoop of lime sorbet (nieve de limón).
Two Kinds of Tejuino
A 2021 study of tejuino in Nayarit described two quite different drinks (Rubio-Castillo et al., 2021):
- Street (commercial) tejuino: nixtamalized maize dough cooked with piloncillo and water, then fermented for just 12–24 hours – often started with a little “tejuino viejo” from the last batch – and finished with salt and lime.
- Artisanal tejuino of the Wixárika (Huichol) people: maize is germinated in the dark and sun-dried for 2–3 days before being mixed with water and fermented for up to about a week, which makes it more sour and more alcoholic. It’s close to the sprouted-maize beer of the Rarámuri, tesgüino.
What’s in It
In the same study, artisanal tejuino had a pH of 3.20 and commercial tejuino 3.62. The artisanal samples contained the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae and the lactic acid bacterium Limosilactobacillus fermentum; commercial ones contained Pichia yeasts and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, and Enterococcus turned up in both. Ethanol was the most abundant aroma compound, especially in the artisanal drinks, so tejuino contains some alcohol, particularly the longer-fermented kind. Total coliform bacteria were absent from all samples (Rubio-Castillo et al., 2021).
Street tejuino is a sweet drink: the piloncillo is added for flavor and to feed the fermentation, so treat it as a treat rather than a health drink.
Serving Tejuino
- Thin the fermented base with cold water to a pourable, nectar-like consistency.
- Fill a glass with crushed ice or a scoop of lime sorbet, pour over the tejuino and add plenty of fresh lime juice.
- Salt the rim or stir in a pinch of salt; some vendors add chamoy and chili powder.
Mexico’s other maize drinks: pozol (fermented maize dough, from the southeast) and Oaxacan tejate (maize and cacao, not fermented). For a fermented fruit drink, try tepache; in the Andes, maize becomes chicha de jora. Bolivia also brews quinoa into chicha de quinoa.