Sufu Recipe: Chinese Fermented Tofu (White, Red and Grey Varieties Explained)

The first time I tried sufu was at a dim sum breakfast in Hong Kong, where a small dish of red cubes arrived alongside congee and you tiao (fried dough). I didn’t know what it was. I took a small cube, touched it to my tongue, and experienced something that landed exactly between very ripe cheese and something uniquely its own. My dining companion, who had grown up eating it, watched me and said: “Tofu that grew up.” That is the most accurate description I’ve heard.

Sufu — also called furu (腐乳), doufu ru, or “fermented tofu” — is one of the oldest fermented foods in China and one of the most quietly influential in all of global fermentation history. It has been produced continuously for at least 1,500 years. A text from the Northern Wei dynasty (386–534 CE) describes a preservation method for tofu using salt and wine that is recognizable as sufu production. By the Tang dynasty (618–907 CE), sufu was a standard item in Chinese monastery kitchens — Buddhist monks, who avoided meat, relied on it as a protein-rich, flavorful condiment that added depth to otherwise austere vegetarian meals.

Despite this history and its enormous popularity across China, sufu remains almost completely unknown in the West. This guide covers what it is, how the three main types differ, how to make it at home, and how to use it in cooking and at the table.

What Is Sufu? Understanding the Basics

Sufu is firm tofu that has been inoculated with mold (typically Mucor or Actinomucor species), allowed to develop a white mycelial surface coating, then submerged in a brine of rice wine, salt, and flavorings and aged for one to six months. During aging, the enzymes produced by the mold break down the tofu’s proteins and fats into peptides, amino acids, and fatty acids — transforming its texture from firm and springy to soft, creamy, and almost spreadable, and its flavor from bland to intensely savory and complex.

The result is visually similar to a small cube of very ripe soft cheese. The texture is genuinely cheese-like. The flavor is salty, funky, deeply umami, and in the case of red sufu, layered with rice wine sweetness and the slight earthiness of red yeast rice (angkak). White sufu is milder and more purely dairy-like in its flavor profile. Grey sufu, produced with rose wine (mei gui lu jiu) and a longer fermentation, is the most pungent and assertive.

Sufu is typically eaten in small amounts — one or two cubes — as a condiment alongside plain rice congee or steamed white rice, or used as a flavor paste in Cantonese braised dishes. It is not the main event; it is the umami punctuation that makes everything around it taste better.

Three Types of Sufu: White, Red, and Grey

White Sufu (Bai Furu, 白腐乳): Made with rice wine (shaoxing or similar), salt, and minimal additional flavoring. The exterior is pale cream to ivory. The flavor is the mildest of the three — creamy, mildly tangy, deeply savory but not aggressive. Common in Shanghai and Jiangsu cooking. Often described as the most “cheese-like” variety. This is the most accessible starting point for non-Chinese cooks trying sufu for the first time.

Red Sufu (Hong Furu, 紅腐乳): The brine contains red yeast rice (Monascus-fermented rice), which gives it a deep red-orange color and a distinctive sweet, slightly earthy note alongside the expected umami. Common in Guangdong (Cantonese) and Fujian cooking. Red sufu is the variety used in classic Cantonese braised pork belly (nam yu pork) and in char siu marinades. The red yeast rice imparts a natural colorant and adds the isoflavones and monacolins that red yeast rice is traditionally associated with.

Grey/Fermented Sufu with Rose Wine (Méi Guī Fǔ Rǔ, 玫瑰腐乳): Uses rose wine (an aromatic Chinese spirit distilled with rose petals) in the brine along with extra chili or Sichuan pepper. This is the most pungent and complex variety, with a grey-brown exterior and an assertive, spirit-forward flavor that can stop conversation. Popular in northern China and Sichuan. Used sparingly in hotpot dipping sauces and as an ingredient in certain braised dishes.

The Fermentation Science

Sufu fermentation involves two distinct phases: the pehtze phase (mold growth on the tofu surface) and the brining/ripening phase (enzymatic breakdown in the brine).

In the pehtze phase, tofu cubes are inoculated with mold spores from Actinomucor elegans, Mucor racemosus, or Mucor wutungkiao — all safe food molds traditionally cultivated on sufu in China. These molds grow a white cottony mycelium over the tofu surface over approximately three to five days at 15–20°C. The mycelium produces potent protease, lipase, and amylase enzymes that begin to break down the tofu’s proteins.

In the ripening phase, the mold-coated tofu is submerged in the flavored brine and sealed. Fermentation continues anaerobically for one to six months. The mold-produced enzymes keep working under anaerobic conditions, continuing to break down proteins and fats. Simultaneously, LAB from the wine and environment contribute to acidification and flavor development. Research by Han et al. published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry (2001) identified the protease activity of Actinomucor elegans as responsible for the distinctive smooth, paste-like texture of fully ripened sufu.

A unique nutritional benefit of sufu fermentation: tofu contains no vitamin B12 (as with all plant foods), but during the fermentation process, Bacillus species and other bacteria present in the brine synthesize B12. Studies by Wang et al. (2015, Food Chemistry) confirmed measurable B12 in finished sufu — making it one of the few plant-derived foods with genuine B12 content, a significant finding for traditional vegetarian and Buddhist diets in China where sufu has historically substituted for meat.

How to Make White Sufu at Home

White sufu is the best starting point for home production. The mold inoculation requires either purchased Actinomucor spores (available from specialty fermentation suppliers) or, in the traditional approach, allowing natural mold colonization in a controlled environment. The method below uses the natural colonization approach, which works reliably if you follow the temperature guidelines carefully.

Ingredients:

— 400 g extra-firm tofu (not silken — you need the firmest tofu available)
— 3 tbsp fine sea salt (non-iodized)
— 100 ml shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry (substitute)
— 1 tsp sugar
— Optional for flavor: 1 tbsp sesame oil, 1 tsp five-spice powder, 1–2 dried chilis

Equipment:

— Sharp knife
— A baking rack set over a tray (for mold-growth phase)
— Cheesecloth
— Sterilized glass jar with lid
— A cool spot: ideally 15–20°C for the mold phase

Step 1: Press and cut the tofu (Day 1)

Press the tofu block firmly between paper towels and a heavy cutting board for 30 minutes to remove as much moisture as possible. Very firm tofu works better; silken tofu is too wet and will fall apart. Cut the tofu into 3 cm cubes — approximately the size of a standard dice, but larger. The classic sufu cube is 3–4 cm on each side.

Step 2: Salt the surface

Lightly salt each cube on all surfaces — just a very thin coating. This light salting inhibits unwanted bacteria while allowing the desired molds to colonize. Do not use heavy salt at this stage; that comes later in the brine.

Step 3: Mold growth phase (3–5 days)

Arrange salted tofu cubes on a baking rack set over a tray. Space them so air can circulate around each cube. Cover loosely with cheesecloth — this keeps insects and dust off while allowing airflow. Place in a spot with consistent temperature of 15–20°C and moderate humidity.

After 2–3 days, check for mold growth. You want a fine, white, cottony mold to appear on the tofu surface. This is Mucor or Actinomucor — entirely safe and the same family of molds used in tempeh production. If you see any pink, green, black, or orange mold, discard that cube immediately. Only pure white mold is acceptable.

By day 4–5, the tofu should be uniformly coated in white mold and feel noticeably softer when gently pressed. This is your pehtze — the mold-fermented tofu ready for brining.

Step 4: Prepare the brine

Combine rice wine, salt, and sugar. Stir until the salt and sugar dissolve completely. Add any optional flavorings (sesame oil, five-spice, dried chilis). Taste the brine — it should be distinctly salty and wine-forward.

Step 5: Pack the jar

Place the mold-coated tofu cubes gently into your sterilized jar, being careful not to break them — they are quite fragile at this stage. Pour brine over the cubes until fully submerged. If you need more brine, mix additional rice wine and salt at a 10:1 ratio (10 parts wine to 1 part salt).

Seal the jar tightly and store at cool room temperature (15–20°C) or in the refrigerator (slower fermentation, more controlled).

Step 6: Age and taste

At room temperature: ready in 4–6 weeks.
In the refrigerator: ready in 3–4 months.

The sufu is ready when the cubes have become noticeably softer and the brine has turned cloudy and fragrant. Open the jar and taste a small piece. It should be creamy, salty, intensely savory, and have a distinct fermented complexity. If it tastes flat or not yet funky enough, reseal and continue for another two weeks.

Making Red Sufu: Adding the Angkak

To make red sufu (Hong Furu), follow the same process as above but modify the brine: replace 2 tablespoons of the rice wine with 2 tablespoons of red yeast rice powder (angkak, available at Chinese grocery stores or online) and add an additional teaspoon of sugar. The red yeast rice gives the brine — and eventually the tofu — its characteristic deep vermilion color and adds a slightly sweet, earthy dimension to the flavor.

Red sufu is used extensively in Cantonese cooking. It’s the secret ingredient in the best char siu pork and in the classic “nam yu” (南乳) braised pork belly, where two or three cubes are mashed and added to the braising liquid alongside shaoxing wine, fermented red bean curd, rock sugar, and five-spice.

How to Use Sufu at the Table and in Cooking

As a breakfast condiment: The classic Chinese use is a small dish of one or two sufu cubes alongside plain rice congee, steamed rice, or boiled millet porridge. You take a small amount of sufu with each spoonful of rice — it’s the flavor, not the main substance. This is analogous to eating a thin scrape of strong cheese on plain crackers.

In stir-fries: Mash a cube or two of white sufu into the sauce before adding to the wok. It melts in completely and adds extraordinary depth to any vegetable stir-fry. Water spinach with white sufu is a classic Cantonese dish (nam yu tong choi) — simple, extraordinary.

In braises: Red sufu is the key ingredient in many classic Cantonese braises. Add 2–3 mashed cubes to the braising liquid for pork belly, beef short ribs, or tofu-based braises. It contributes color, umami, and a background sweetness.

As a marinade: Mash sufu with garlic, ginger, and a little honey for a powerful pork or chicken marinade. The enzymes in sufu tenderize meat proteins effectively — leave meat in a sufu marinade for 4–6 hours and the resulting cooked meat is noticeably more tender.

Sufu vs. Other Fermented Tofu Products

Sufu is sometimes confused with other fermented soy products. To clarify:

— Sufu vs. stinky tofu (chou doufu): Stinky tofu is made by brining fresh tofu in a bacterial fermentation solution (often containing fermented milk, shrimp paste, and other strongly flavored ingredients) for hours to days before deep-frying. It’s a street food. Sufu is a months-long mold fermentation producing a condiment. Different product, different process, different use.

— Sufu vs. miso: Miso is made from soybeans and grain, uses Aspergillus oryzae (koji mold), and is a paste. Sufu is made from tofu, uses Mucor/Actinomucor molds, and maintains discrete cube form. Both involve complex mold-driven fermentations but are distinct traditions.

— Sufu vs. tempeh: Tempeh is made from whole cooked soybeans fermented with Rhizopus oligosporus for 24–48 hours to produce a firm cake eaten as a meat substitute. Sufu is made from tofu, uses different molds, ferments for months, and is a condiment. Very different end products.

Nutritional Benefits

Sufu is a nutritionally concentrated food. Per 30 g serving (typically one to two cubes), sufu provides approximately 4–6 g protein, 2–3 g fat, significant calcium (from the tofu base), and — uniquely among plant foods — measurable vitamin B12 produced during bacterial fermentation. The isoflavones present in soy are maintained and potentially enhanced by fermentation, with some research suggesting fermented soy isoflavones are more bioavailable than those in plain tofu (Wang et al., 2007, Food Research International).

The live bacteria in sufu include Tetragenococcus, Lactobacillus, and Bacillus species, which survive in the fermentation brine. Because sufu is consumed directly from its fermentation medium without heating, these bacteria reach the gut alive. The high salt content (sufu is consumed in small amounts as a condiment, not as a primary food) means sodium intake is manageable — a single cube contains approximately 200–400 mg sodium, comparable to a tablespoon of soy sauce.

Where to Find Sufu

Every Chinese grocery store stocks sufu. Look for small glass jars labeled 腐乳 (fǔ rǔ) or specifically 紅腐乳 (red) or 白腐乳 (white). Major Chinese brands like Guanghe, Wangzhihe, and Haitian are widely distributed internationally and produce excellent quality sufu. Wang Zhi He brand (王致和) is Beijing’s most famous sufu producer, operating continuously since 1671 — one of the longest-operating food businesses in the world.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does sufu keep? Unopened commercial sufu keeps for 12–24 months at room temperature. Once opened, refrigerate and consume within 3–4 months. The high salt concentration is an excellent natural preservative. Home-made sufu stored in the brine in the refrigerator keeps for 6–12 months.

Is white mold on sufu safe? Yes — white mold on sufu during the pehtze phase is Mucor or Actinomucor, the desired fermentation mold. Only white mold is acceptable. Any pink, green, black, or orange mold indicates contamination with undesired species; discard affected pieces immediately.

Can I eat sufu if I’m lactose intolerant? Yes — sufu is made entirely from soy, not dairy. Despite its cheese-like flavor and texture, it contains no milk products whatsoever.

Is sufu vegan? Yes. White and grey sufu are entirely vegan. Some traditional red sufu recipes include dried shrimp in the brine, so check labels if this matters to you; many commercial versions are fully vegan.

Why does some sufu taste bitter? Slight bitterness in sufu can come from under-fermentation (not enough time for enzyme activity) or from excessive mold growth on the exterior before brining. Ensure your pehtze phase runs the full 4–5 days and that the mold coating is fine and cottony rather than thick and chunky.