Idli are soft, spongy steamed cakes from South India, made from a batter of rice and urad dal (skinned black gram) that has fermented overnight. They’re eaten for breakfast with coconut chutney and sambar. The same kind of batter, ground thinner and with a different rice balance, becomes crisp dosa.
What Makes the Batter Rise
Idli batter rises without yeast or baking powder. In the classic study of idli fermentation, the bacterium Leuconostoc mesenteroides was mainly responsible for both the souring and the gas that leavens the batter, with Enterococcus and then Pediococcus becoming significant later – the first recorded case of leavening by a lactic acid bacterium alone (Mukherjee et al., 1965).
A 2019 study using modern sequencing confirmed the picture and added detail: lactic acid bacteria made up 86% of the bacteria, Weissella emerged as the most important genus, and the fermentation is driven by microbes that come in on the rice and dal themselves – grains that had been surface-sterilized didn’t ferment at all. The microbes also produced enzymes that break down starch and phytate, and B vitamins (Mandhania et al., 2019). That’s why idli batter needs no starter, just warmth and time, and why it ferments faster with fresh dal.
Getting It Right
- Temperature: a warm spot, about 28–32°C, gives a good rise overnight (8–12 hours); in a cool kitchen it can take 14 hours or more.
- Grind: the urad dal should be ground light and fluffy; the rice slightly coarse, like fine semolina.
- Ready: the batter has risen noticeably, is full of small bubbles and smells pleasantly sour.
- Salt: many cooks stir it in before fermenting, others after; in hot weather, salt added early slows the batter down a little.
Is Idli Healthy?
Idli is a light, steamed, low-fat food. Rice and urad dal together give a better mix of amino acids than either alone, and it’s naturally gluten-free. Steaming kills the bacteria, so idli isn’t a source of live cultures; its benefits come from what fermentation did to the batter. For other bean-and-grain ferments that are safe at home – and those that aren’t – see fermented beans.
Fermented batters from other cuisines include Ethiopian injera and Ghanaian kenkey. Urad dal is also fermented and sun-dried into North India’s wadi. Tamil Nadu also sours millet porridge into koozh.