Borș is a sour, cloudy liquid made by fermenting wheat bran in water for a few days. In Romania and Moldova it’s the traditional way to sour ciorbă – the family of sour soups that includes chicken, meatball (perișoare) and vegetable ciorbă – added near the end of cooking. Despite the similar name it isn’t borscht, the beetroot soup: borș is an ingredient, not a dish. It’s sold bottled in Romanian shops, and many households keep a batch going, using a little of the last one to start the next.
What Ferments It
Borș is a lactic ferment: bacteria living on the bran turn its starches and sugars into lactic acid, which gives the rounded sourness that distinguishes it from vinegar. Researchers in Bucharest who screened bacteria from Romanian fermented foods found starch-digesting Lactobacillus amylolyticus and L. oris in borș, and those strains produced bacteriocins – natural antibacterial proteins (Grosu-Tudor et al., 2014). The same group has used selected lactic acid bacteria to ferment wheat bran with beetroot or carrot into drinks (Zamfir et al., 2022).
Scalding the bran with boiling water at the start, as Romanian cooks do, gelatinises its starch so the bacteria can use it, and favours the heat-tolerant ones. Because borș is boiled in the soup, it’s a souring ingredient rather than a source of live cultures.
Using It
- Ciorbă: add borș to the finished soup and bring it back to the boil for a few minutes; season with lovage or parsley and serve with sour cream. How much depends on the borș’s strength – start with about 500 ml per 3 litres of soup and taste.
- No borș? Lemon juice, sauerkraut juice or a little vinegar will sour a ciorbă, with a sharper, less rounded taste.
For other sour grain ferments, see Polish żurek and Russian kvass; for how such cultures work, see our guide to the microbiology of sourdough.