Tesgüino (also tesguino) is a thick, cloudy, mildly alcoholic maize beer of northern Mexico. It’s made by the Rarámuri (Tarahumara) of Chihuahua’s Sierra Madre Occidental – for whom it marks important events in community life – and also by Yaqui and Pima people in Sonora, Guarijío in Chihuahua and Sonora, Tepehuán in Durango, and mestizo communities in several states (FAO, 1999).
How Tesgüino Is Made
FAO’s survey of Latin American cereal fermentations describes the traditional process (FAO, 1999):
- Sprouting: maize kernels are soaked and left to germinate in the dark for several days. Sprouting produces the enzymes that turn starch into sugar – the same job malting does for barley beer.
- Grinding and boiling: the sprouted maize is ground in a stone or metal mill and boiled in water until the mixture turns yellow – about 8 hours for a 10 kg batch.
- Fermenting: the liquid goes into clay pots kept only for tesgüino, along with plant “catalysts” – bark, kakwara (Randia species), kaya (Coutarea pterosperma), stevia leaves and other roots and stems, depending on the region – and ferments for 2–3 days.
What Ferments It, and How Strong It Is
Lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus, Streptococcus, Leuconostoc, Pediococcus) and yeasts (Saccharomyces, Candida) have been isolated from tesgüino, with Saccharomyces cerevisiae doing most of the alcoholic fermentation. Reported final values are about 3.7% ethanol, 0.41% lactic acid and 0.11% acetic acid, and the protein content rises during fermentation (FAO, 1999). That’s beer strength – not a drink for children or pregnancy.
Tesgüino, Tejuino and Chicha
Western Mexico’s tejuino is a relative: the Wixárika make an artisanal tejuino from sprouted maize much like tesgüino, while street tejuino uses masa and piloncillo and ferments for only a day. In the Andes, sprouted maize becomes chicha de jora. Oaxacan tejate, despite the similar name, isn’t fermented at all.
Safety Notes
Sprouting maize stays warm and damp for days, which suits moulds as well as sprouts. Moulds on maize can produce mycotoxins that boiling and fermentation don’t remove (WHO), so rinse the sprouting maize daily and throw out any kernels – or the whole batch – that turn fuzzy, green, black or pink or smell musty. Keep the fermenting pot covered and clean, and drink tesgüino fresh: it sours quickly.