Brovada is the fermented turnip dish of Friuli Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy. Whole white turnips with a purple collar are buried in the grape marc (pomace) left over from winemaking and left to sour; then they’re grated into long strips and cooked, traditionally to go with musetto (a spiced pork sausage, also called muset) or stirred into bean soup like sauerkraut (Turismo FVG). It’s an autumn and winter food, tied to the grape harvest.
A Protected Food
Since 2011, “Brovada” has been a Protected Designation of Origin in the EU. The registered name covers the product obtained from white turnips with a purple collar, transformed by maceration and fermentation in marc, prepared only within the defined area of Friuli Venezia Giulia (Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 1119/2011). Under the production rules, the turnips must be grown in the provinces of Gorizia, Pordenone and Udine, and the marc must come from red grapes grown in the region (Regione FVG).
How It’s Made
The turnips are layered whole in a container with grape marc and some water and left to acidify – the marc supplies sugars, acids, color and microbes, and the turnips sour slowly over weeks (Turismo FVG). They’re then peeled, grated into strips and cooked, usually slowly with a little fat, onion or garlic, until tender and tangy. Because it’s cooked, brovada is a fermented food without live cultures by the time it reaches the plate.
Brovada is a close cousin of the turnip ferments of Central Europe – German and Austrian Sauerrüben are shredded turnips fermented with salt like sauerkraut – and of salt-brined fermented turnips. What sets it apart is the grape pomace.
Making It at Home
The one hard ingredient is fresh red-grape pomace – ask a winery during harvest, when it’s pressed. Use pomace from grapes you’d be happy to eat, keep everything clean, and make sure the turnips stay covered by marc and liquid with a weight on top. A fine white film can form on exposed liquid; fuzzy, colored mold or a rotten smell means discard. Expect a sour, wine-tinged turnip – then cook it (recipe card below). For films, mold and off smells, see our troubleshooting guide.