Kenkey is a staple of southern Ghana: maize that is soaked, ground and fermented into a sour dough, partly cooked, wrapped in dried maize husks or plantain leaves and steamed into firm, tangy dumplings. It’s eaten with fried fish and hot pepper sauce (shito or fresh pepper), or with soups and stews. There are three main types – Ga kenkey and two Fante kenkeys, brown and white (Annan-Prah & Agyeman, 1997); Ga kenkey is usually wrapped in dried maize husks and Fante kenkey in plantain leaves.
What Happens in the Dough
When researchers sampled fermented maize dough from 15 larger commercial kenkey producers, they found a strikingly uniform community: by the late stage of fermentation, more than 96% of the bacteria were heterofermentative lactobacilli at about 109 per gram, with yeasts (mainly Candida and Saccharomyces) at about 106. Gram-negative bacteria and moulds fell 1,000- to 10,000-fold early in the fermentation, and the aroma came from lactic, acetic, propionic and butyric acids (Halm et al., 1993).
That acidification has a practical payoff. In a Ghanaian village study, weaning foods made from fermented maize dough carried far fewer Gram-negative bacteria than unfermented ones, both when prepared and after 6–12 hours of storage (Mensah et al., 1990). Kenkey made from maize alone was also low in biogenic amines, with no histamine detected (Nout et al., 1994).
Aflata: Why Half the Dough Is Cooked
Before wrapping, part of the fermented dough is cooked with water into a thick, stiff porridge called aflata, then kneaded back into the raw dough with salt. This gives a dough that holds its shape in the wrapper and sets firmly when steamed. The packets are then steamed for a couple of hours – long enough that kenkey is a cooked food without live cultures.
Kenkey and Health
- Blood sugar: in a small crossover study of 10 healthy adults, Ga kenkey had a glycemic index of 41, lower than banku (73) or locally pounded fufu (55) (Eli-Cophie et al., 2017).
- For babies: kenkey mashed into a pap is used as a weaning food, but it doesn’t meet young children’s nutrient needs on its own – breastfeeding and other foods are still needed. Researchers also advise washing hands well, using safe water and heating the pap before serving (Annan-Prah & Agyeman, 1997).
- Mouldy maize: maize can carry mycotoxins such as aflatoxins and fumonisins, which fermentation doesn’t remove. Use clean, dry, sound kernels and discard any that are mouldy, discolored or shriveled (WHO).
Related ferments: Nigerian ogi is a fermented maize porridge, Sudanese kisra a fermented sorghum flatbread, and Ethiopian injera a fermented teff flatbread. In the Andes, maize is fermented into chicha de jora.